1931 May 10 - Africa, Katanga, Albertville - the ferry, going Europe

1931 May 9 | Albertville, Back to Future Africa

Albertville. A flow of humanity, trucks and animals all running to or from the water in a cloud of diesel smokes and dust. She starts retreating towards the hotel. The humidity is cloying. Rising from the Lake, it mixes with laterite dust to pulverise into an airborne mist, and dissolves…

22 March 1930 - Africa - South Kivu - Ngandja - Camp Modja - Suzanne, François and the cat

1931 March 22 | TIME to PACK UP

Last day. He shuts down the notebook, satisfied. She dutifully nods and give an appreciative grunt to the effort. Most of these villages are only recorded in this notebook, she has no idea where they are. But Albertville? Hell yes, that one means the boat back to France. He looks…

Camp Modja, 22 May 1930 to 10 April 1931, Suzanne goes hunting

1931 February | Never Again

The bolt slides silkily forward and locks with a muffled rasp. Pull it back and the spent cartridge joyfully springs out. Clack-click. Click-clack. Tingles or shudders.
Its heart is a bewildering 3-dimensional puzzle metal parts, each groove and ridge machined to deliver a perfect motion each time.
Mechanical excellence, with…

1930s - Africa, Congo, Katanga, South Kivu, Ngandja - River and ground sampling - digging for gold

1930 May until April 1931 | Camp Modja, Digging for Gold

Once, the path to the office had been nothing more than a trail in the grass, a vague outline snaking towards the woods, the hills and the streams to explore. Now, weeks later, it was a grove dug by shuffling feet, brushing shoulders, careless spades and freshly sharpened machetes, sanded…

1930 Spring | Camp Katenga, Buzzing with Fun | Suzanne Dulière and her husband François

1930 Spring | Camp Katenga, Buzzing with Fun

80 kms South of Fizi, on the border Kivu/Katanga, Camp Katenga, 19 February to 22 May 1930. Life is Fun. You live it, you do not make it or have it. The way she sees it, the way she was taught, entertainment was a duty, a tool. It was only…

Part 13 of Transvaal Blue Skies: 1929 December 15 | Camp Lubitshako, a Door!

1929 Winter | Camp Lubitshako!

Moving to a new country has little to do with changing location. Or even adjusting to a new temperature, or a new culture. There is all of that, sure, but it is primarily stepping into a completely new sphere of existence, absolutely cut from the one you are leaving. You…

1929 Autumn | Camp Werhert, Baby Goats and a Phacochère | Part 12 of Transvaal Blue Skies

1929 Autumn | Camp Werhert, Goats and a Phacochère

Just, turning the bend, the successful hunting party makes its triumphant way through the village, a nonchalant peloton strolling in. The trackers lead, spotters and beaters follow, as always. By chance, François finds himself at the head of the little troop, Mauser slinged. Total coincidence, naturally, he is not one…

Part 11 of Transvaal Blue Skies: 1929 July 31 | A Month Walking to the Kiymbi River

1929 July 31 | A Month Walking to the Kiymbi River

And so they walk for a month, setting up the tent and folding it every other night. Further and further in. Every day, new trails, new marks and samples. Always on, further on! Guide in front, machete in hand, a flintlock on a strap. Beaters upfront each side of the…

1929 July 1 | Porters and Trackers | Transvaal Blue Skies

1929 July 1 | Porters and Trackers

On the main square, François sits in the shade with the Chief under the squat hut awning. He is on a smaller seat, as protocol and manners dictate, leaning forward intently, scrutinising a line of local candidates standing at rest in the sun. The griot/féticheur/ healer stands behind the Chief…

1929 June 29 | A Rain of Stars | Transvaal Blue Skies

1929 June 29 | A Rain of Stars

Now – Eternity. Oak trees tower over long forgotten trails. Olive trees twist and turn in frozen dances. Palm trees hang out over weary pools.
Rocks and stones, hieratic and solemn; witnessing, recording, remembering. Fleeting millennia pass by, shadows forever rushing to the next horizon. And youth, always trying to grow…